Asayama-san Boot Camp day 3. waves were super good at Ala Moana today so we went out. still had some big sets but way smaller than the past 2 days. it was very easy for us as you can see perfect riding on this nice waves.

being that the waves got smaller, all the small wave surfers came flocking back. nobody would ever paddle for waves the other day, but now, people were trying to take Asayama-san’s wave.

i always tell Asayama-san, “when i say go, you go!” so he went! the other guy shouldn’t have gone because you can’t just show up on the small days and make big attitude surfer. that doesn’t work with me.

so cool to see Eri-chan charging too! so cool to take this girl surfing 5 years ago, listen to her dream of living in Hawaii, and now that dream is true. i love to hear success stories like hers.

big confidence equals big surf. simple…

thank you Asayama-san for sending inspiration to all your fans! did you know that you were the oldest surfer in the water at Ala Moana on those big days? nobody even close to your age can handle powerful waves like that. so proud of you!

and thank you also for the sweets!

after surf, warm up with super pho!

eat it all, then think about going back to bed for a nap.

not me, i went straight back out! waves still super good and super long rides.

surfed with Imai-san and had a great time. i’m not sure if he came for my Boot Camp, but it turned into a Boot Camp afternoon. haha.

there is the most beautiful ranch on the East side. i just love stopping by to take a look. fresh air and pure nature.

and since Asayama-san use to ride horses in America a long time ago, it must have brought back some good memories.

this horse was absolutely beautiful! after seeing him up close, i started to feel bad for eating horse sashimi in Japan last week.

this lady would probably kill me if she found out i ate horse before. i don’t think i’ll ever eat it again. and i’m sure Asayama-san doesn’t eat it too.

the worlds best Lilikoi Butter is sold out of a garage only on weekends. but since we know the owners, we can go anytime, even on weekdays.

i just pull up, honk my horn, and they know we’re here.

then this kind man comes outside and fills our order.

this is absolutely the best lilikoi butter! spread some over some toast in the morning and you’ll have a sweet day.

this is what you call “Aloha.” real Hawaiians making people from around the world very happy.

as we left Waimanalo, we were heading home and thinking about an afternoon nap. then Carter texts me “secret spot going off.” i reply “ok, we’re going!” pull up to our secret spot and the waves were absolutely perfect! Carter had his foil, i had my foil, and Asayama-san had his thruster.

another foil drone shot taken by me. it was yet another amazing day in paradise…

Yesterday@Rockpiles. Amazing waves!

Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Waikiki chest high and perfect.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!