the waves were so big today! Bowls was breaking outside by the red buoy. only had one guy surfing Rock Piles left so that’s where we went. Asayama-san taking some huge drops!

once in a while a huge double overhead obake set would smash us all the way in. but we never gave up and kept on going back out.

Asayama-san told me “the waves are so hollow today!” i told him “yeah, once it gets overhead out there, all the waves are hollow.

little bit more and Asayama-san could have gotten barreled! tomorrow we shall try again.

last wave of our amazing morning session.

when the waves are knee to chest high, there are 30 surfers out. some taking all the waves, some dropping in, and some very stuck up. but when the waves get huge like today, only the men come out to ride the mountains. Asayama-san was on of the few men out today.

by far, today was the biggest waves of this young mans life. i’m so proud of him!

then went for some healthy chicken rice in China Town.

gosh, i love this very inexpensive meal. fills me up with happiness.

and the sesame balls for dessert. the happy ending.

then to Kailua to the Chocolate Factory called Manoa. the chocolate tea is the best!

then came back to town went for another secret spot session. Asayama-san wanted to surf different spots on this trip. we already surfed 3 spots and he just came yesterday. where next?

Nao-san told me of this cool juice shop.

raw tamari almonds are the best. wait? i think i already posted about this. umm, must be the nuts…

so good to see Shui-kun at the contest. thank you Mama for sending me this photo.

walked into Niwa one afternoon.

happened to be the best season for this amazing sashimi on rice dish.

gosh, i wish you all can try this. it was amazing.

and yes, the dessert is homemade and perfect too.

thank you Yuri-san for the food made with love.

ok, a Dive Shop just took over the main beach boys stand on Waikiki Beach. look how this girl is putting in the fins backwards??? omg! if you want to learn how to surf, learn from a surfer. not a diver, not a skateboarder, not a fisherman, and not a body boarder. learn how to surf from a real surfer. then you will get the real experience. i get really disappointed seeing things like this…

No rain, no rainbows…

Good morning 6am.
Still strong South Swell.
Ala Moana and Waikiki 3-5’ and good.
Diamond Head bigger but windy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going big wave surfing!
Have a wonderful day!