had an incredible day of surfing and foiling. started off this morning with some Boot Camp with Taguchi-san. huge improvements and after tomorrow’s morning session, this guy will be ripping even more.

so cool to see Arman having fun in the sun.

this afternoon went foiling Bowls. Toda-san focused and in control today. after this, i paddled out to Rock Piles Rights, caught a left, rode it all the way to Bowls, then rode it in to the beach. i was done! so stoked!

another angle of Toda-san’s wipeout yesterday. of all the years of surfing big waves with Toda-san, i never seen him fall like this before. maybe that’s why foiling is so addicting? it’s like learning to surf all over again. i love it!

want to thank Toda-san for the drone work. i’ll tell you a little about this following drone video he shot. first, the waves were pretty small. second, Bowls was pretty crowded. third, it was pretty shallow. and last, it was pretty pretty! another gorgeous day here in paradise. let’s go Foil into Summer!

the higher up you get out of the water, the higher experiences you will have. the view is much better and you can see so many things you won’t see on a regular surfboard. someday i hope to foil with dolphins in the deep blue sea. that would be awesome.

i catch a right at Bowls yesterday afternoon. i start foiling and see something swimming along with me. so i speed up and do a turn.

then the shadow turns right along the side with me. i know it can’t be a shark because sharks can’t turn like that. it can’t be a dolphin because it is too shallow. it can’t be a turtle because of the shape. what was it???

i pull out, it swims up to me, and it was a baby Hawaiian Monk Seal!!! OMG, he was just playing around with me. what an incredible experience!

i’m so happy to share foiling experiences with my friends. i get to see pretty much their lowest point in life when they get frustrated. and i get to see pretty much their highest point in life when they get airborne. this is what friendship is all about. it’s about being there for the good, the bad, and the ugly. haha.

Toda-san took some amazing drone footage of me the other day. the water was so clear that it looked like i was skimming the reef.

video coming soon on Go-Naminori. thank you Toda-san for the amazing drone work!

Drone@SouthSumatra. Photo by Shinsuke Matsukawa

Good morning 5:15am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good. Little morning sickness.
Diamond Head head high and really bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!