Monthly Archives: June 2018

WET FOR LIFE…

so good to go to Aunty’s Ramen to get the healthy rice noodles with white soup base. delicious to the last drop.

and the free dessert is always amazing. the colors of Taiwan!

don’t bother us, we are eating. haha.

had some good eats with Yokota-san yesterday.

going through old photos and found these. Seth Moniz with the Yugawara Boys. look now tiny they were! haha.

i went to Japan with Seth a few times. this time he slept in the closet. haha.

and i kind of forced him to paddle out to an ice cold river mouth to surf. i felt bad at that time but i think this experience made this kid strong. that was the idea.

so happy to see that Nao-san got her new Dove Wetsuit! now she’s warm for life…

this is by far one of the coolest photos ever! Tokura-san’s kanriki 60 year old birthday party in the middle of the Indian Ocean! every time i look at this photo, it makes me realize where i want to be on my 60th birthday. with a bunch of friends acting like kids surfing the worlds best waves! yeah!

last, did you see the renewal of Dove Wetsuits website? omg, it’s amazing! so stoked to see Matchi making the front page. Dove’s been around for 43 golden years and i’m glad to be a part of it for the past 26 years!

CLICK HERE FOR DOVEWET.COM…

June 23, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report

Makani@DH

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana knee/waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Rocket Man 1000x

Yokota-san use to surf a long time ago so he wanted to try again. it’s been 10 years but surfing will always be surfing. here is the longest ride of his life…

to surf in Hawaii for the first time and see this amazing view must be amazing. i see this every single day and i’m still amazed…

thank you Yokota-san! you did great today!!! welcome back to the surfing world!

always good to see my friends enjoying this beautiful Summer in Hawaii. as i caught my last wave in, i was telling Toda-san “get ready for this afternoon.”

this afternoon comes, i borrow Tony’s board, put on a foil i borrow, and we paddle out. i watched Toda-san on his first wave and i thought to myself “omg, maybe i put the foil too far up on the board?” and after seeing this photo, yes i did! omg, sorry Toda-san!

imagine standing up on a wave and taking off like Rocket Man! haha! i’m going to move the foil back, put on a smaller wing, and we’ll try again. i guarantee next time will be 1000x better.

then i got my other student that foiled for the first time having the time of her life. haha.

i’m taking off in the middle of these 2 dangerous people trying to get the photo. almost getting hit in the head by my own foil? my life just got 1000x dangerous??