recently been having a lot of days of stress free lifestyle in Hawaii. just surfing, eating, and hanging out. simple, but happy. on the other hand, i hear people complaining, see road rage, and feel negative vibes at times. why? i don’t understand how you can’t be happy here in paradise???
cool photo Rikita-san took on Molokai… this is cousin Dino’s pet goat with the most beautiful eyes.
once again, we had Diamond Head to ourselves this morning. and Rikita-san was loving every minute of it.
and loving every wave of it too.
and i was loving every minute of taking photos from my foil.
when i’m shooting, i can see right into Rikita-san’s eyes. and it shows pure excitement and happiness…
i shoot a couple photos, and i get off the wave and catch the one behind. getting pretty easy!
i encourage everybody to watch this show called Hunters of the South Seas. it’s about hunting food, it’s about survival, and it’s about culture. it will make you think about things, especially if you haven’t traveled to places like that before…
and speaking about thinking about things, i’m thinking about his electric Harley Davidson bike that’s coming out. it must go pretty dam fast!
i gave Rikita-san the T-shirt i got from my sister for Seth Moniz’s WCT qualification party. he was wearing it today so i was super stoked!
then we go to the Surfers Coffee in Wahiawa to get coffee. then the girl at the register looked at Rikita-san and said “OMG, where did you get that t-shirt from!!!! i’m Seth’s fan! i want it!!!” she was just joking but Rikita-san is so nice that he took off the shirt and gave it to her.
the girl was so happy! then i called up Seth and got him on the phone, then gave the phone to her. she started talking to him and didn’t want to get off. so i had to grab my phone back. haha.
the girl put on the t-shirt and i don’t think she will ever take it off. haha. thank you Rikita-san for being such a gentlemen. i know how important that t-shirt meant for you, but you had a big heart to know that this girl wanted it even more. that’s very generous of you…
and to Claire who works at Surfers Coffee, your smile and excitement was very nice to see. you made our day buy just being so pure. i’ll tell Seth to stop by and say hello someday on his way back from the North Shore. i didn’t realize till now how that little kid can make people so happy. that’s so cool.
i took Seira-chan out for her first sunset session. we had the whole Diamond Head Cliff’s spot all to ourselves.
she chose the right board to have the most fun on. and surfing really good. we ended up surfing till pitch dark!
this lesson was about having heats, being aggressive, and paddling hard. i think it was an eye opener for Seira-chan because her competitor for the day was me. haha. we still have 2 more weeks of Boot Camp so even if i have to be an asshole, this girl will be surfing 10x better. just wait and see…
hey Seira-chan, i’m glad you liked your first sunset session. sorry for being so tough on you at times. i see your potential and i’m trying any and every way to get it out of you. just keep on trying your hardest and when you win your first contest, you will realize how hard work pays off. i know you can do it!
Sayuri-chan@Diamond Head!
