another amazing morning with Ueda-san!  surfing better than ever.   and loving life better than ever!Mayumi-san usually gets nervous when we paddle out, but after one wave like this, all the nerves are gone!   you can see it in the smile.   it’s unbelievable that Ueda-san was just going straight last year.  now he’s taking off on his own and riding left, right, and both on the same wave.   and also riding some big sets too!  look at him go!   as for Mayumi-san, she has no idea how big of waves she’s riding because i always tell her not to look behind.  this was a big one!   look at that big white wash coming down on her.  so nice!   Ueda-san making me the funny face.  only a feeling a surfer experiences after a good ride.  why we do it?   because we’re stoked!   and the smile continues. great job!  see you guys tomorrow for more wild surf and big smiles!  then i had these kids from 12-6pm.  the West wind was wild and strong, the waves were challenging and big, not to mention freezing cold, but they wanted to surf and surf.  Niina-chan and Shuuto-kun amazed me today.   photos coming tomorrow.   going to dinner now with my Go-Naminori crew.   i’m so tired, but never to tired to see them.   have a wonderful evening!

 as much as the Moniz kids are like my own kids to me, Tony is like a brother to me.  he’s always been supporting me ever since i was 17 years old when i first met him.  he showed me how to charge big waves, he taught me how to be a waterman, and most of all, he led by example how to respect others.   so at this point in my life, i have to say that Tony had a huge impact in my life.  and still does…    so when ever i can share a wave with someone i respect so much, i smile, take a photo, and get the hell out of his way!  everybody knows Tony will run over anyone in his way, including family.  haha… Carter told me he was going out for just a couple of waves.   but he was having so much fun that a couple of waves turned out to 20 waves.  i thought i surfed pretty long, but Carter was still foiling when i was out on the top of Diamond Head getting ready to go home.  it’s hilarious how addicted to the foil we all are… every single time i pass by Diamond Head, i either see Edmond foiling, or with his Binoculars standing on the top of the cliff checking the waves.  he couldn’t have picked a better time to retire from decades of lifeguarding… i tell everybody to stay out of Edmond’s way too.  he comes pretty close to people too, kind of like Tony. as for me, i think i’m one of the most careful of the foilers.  i make sure i keep a good distance from everybody else.   but if you snake me from behind and i don’t like you, you better get the heck out of my way when i start my cutback.  because i can be right in your face within 3 seconds with my samurai sword.  i like Ryo-san so i just watch him fly by.  look at that beautiful wall ahead of him!  a surfers dream…

Ryo Kubota smiling @ Diamond Head yesterday evening…

Good morning 6:20am.

North shore HUGE!  20′ plus and very dangerous.  Onshore and stormy.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

North winds at 20-30 mph.

Sunny and very cool.

Going surfing all day!

See you in the water…