Subway Surfer

February 20, 2019

Chiyoko-san only surfs once a year when she comes to Hawaii. this morning she was surfing so good so i asked her how she got better. she told me that every morning when she takes the subway to work, she’s surfing in her mind. Subway surfer!!! haha…

this is subway image training at it’s finest! so perfect!

it was raining all morning but the waves were absolutely perfect! i was image training myself trying to get barreled!

there were only a few of us surfers out this morning because of the rain. that’s exactly how i like it!

and when you have a warm Dove wetsuit, you can’t feel the chill like everybody else. thank you Chiyoko-san for the wonderful surf session. and thank you also for translating my blogs. peace and aloha!

then went to eat Pho for the first time with the Tanaka-san family. warm meal and warm hearts. so happy to see you guys again!

then went surfing at Bowls with Seira-chan this afternoon. guess what? nobody out!!! it was only us and the fishes. and the good waves!

drove out to Wahiawa to pick up a board, then back to town in the heaviest traffic. took 2.5 hours!

then went to look at Diamond Head on the way home this evening. waves were good, but wetsuit and trucks were soaking cold and wet. omg!

but when somebody lends you a new foil board, you’d do anything to get into the ocean. wet and cold, i went anyway. and ended up having the happiest foiling session!

driving home thinking to myself “wow, what a beautiful day that just passed!”

Cutback Fever and East Oahu Pipeline!

February 20, 2019

just follow my blog and see how good this girls surfing has gotten in just a week! thanks to my foil drone shots, i can capture angles i’ve never taken before. starting off with the perfect takeoff. one pump out, get speed, and start the cutback. left arm leads, shoulders and eyes follows. exactly like this! push on the back foot and let the sprays fly! then redirect towards the shoulder and do another one. perfect cutback from Seira-chan at Diamond Head… i’m also cutback lover. now even more than ever… shots from the East side Jurassic Park… walking on water… sharing is caring…this spot is like the East side Pipeline because it draws the most elite surfers in the world when it’s on! who was out this day? i’ll give you a few famous names.