i went to surf my secret spot because i wanted to practice surfing with nobody around.  my timing is way off because of foiling, but i hope to get it back soon. used this little back fin today and the board totally changed.  more drive and more stable.  so good!i haven’t seen a tour boat for the past 2 months so the ocean is very peaceful.  the turtles seem to love it.  so do i…so happy that hundreds of tourists per day aren’t harassing them anymore.  but once Hawaii opens up, i bet the hundreds turn into thousands.  sad…the water was clean, the waves were good.  hard choice between surfing and diving.on the way in, Bowls still looked good but crowded as always.came home and finished up my project.  i just finished and i’m super happy with the results.  i only spent $130 for the materials and the labor was my love…

met this cool guy Matt last year in the water.  been talking about surfing, boards, and yoga ever since.  he’s a young 70 years old…when i first met him, he told me he was getting too old to surf.  i told him “no way!  from now is your time!”  talked him into doing yoga, trying new boards, and now he’s surfing better than ever!  if i can still surf like this when i’m 70 years old, i’ll be a happy man.  keep on inspiring us Matt! Mateus has been helping me a lot around the yard.  he already knows what to water and how much water to give.and he does it very carefully.  then after he’s finished, he tries to throw water on me!  haha.  funny kid…the gardenias are blooming everywhere!  i can smell it all day and all night…yes, i’d have to say that this is my favorite flower.  it smells so sweet and makes me so happy…

South swell continues..

Good morning 4:45am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to exercise in the ocean.

Have a wonderful day!