today i really wanted to try my new board somewhere where nobody was out.  just felt like connecting to the ocean and being in a peaceful place.  Bowls didn’t look to peaceful.  and it was only 6:30am!  i still can’t believe how many surfers are in the water these days.  took out my brand new 5’10 which i will call “Momotaro.”  and from my very first wave, Momotaro and i connected.  i did 3 off the lips and a cutback.  i didn’t want my session to end.  so happy to get another magic board! i went diving outside Waikiki and found these 2 fins on the bottom of the ocean in about 20′ deep water.  if it’s yours, i’ll give it back to you so just let me know.  then spent the rest of the day at Kelia’s house.  all the girls were there helping out so it was super fun.  if this is what retired life is like, i really like it!

 i try to teach kids how to have a healthy and happy life.  i try to teach them to stay away from the tv and video games.  so surfing and training is perfect for that.  here is Mateus perfecting his head kick.  i can’t believe how high he can kick!after we’re done training, our blood is flowing.  we get hyper, we get excited, and we get so happy!  then i get tired and fall asleep before him.  haha…

The longest Summer vacation for kids.  So let’s go surfing!

Good morning 4:40am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to the ocean.

Have a wonderful day!