Monthly Archives: May 2020

Supermoon Foiling

the very first time i went full moon surfing was when i was in high school.  and that was at Rock Piles.  i don’t remember catching a wave, but i remember the feeling.  it felt so surreal, and it still does…riding waves in the dark and almost running over your friends.  haha.  i tell my friends to smile so i can at least see their teeth.  and it works because that’s all you can see.  now, i have the time i never had before.  so today, i went to work all day with my sister, Tony, Kelia, and Joe.  working hard and laughing all the way…ever seen a centipede?  better not get stung by this…after all the sweat, i was driving home at 5pm ready for dinner.  last night i slept at 7:30pm and woke up this morning at 3am.  haha.  tonight i want to try to sleep at 8:30pm so i jumped in the ocean to kill time.  flew like a bird for 1 hour and felt so clean and free!  now it’s 8pm and i’m going to sleep.  see you tomorrow morning probably at 3am again.  haha.   goodnight…

Sweet Boy Blooming…

 when Mateus was born, i planted a gardenia tree just for him.  now it’s super big and blooms all year around.  i told him to pose with these 2 beautiful buds we picked and here was his sweet smile.  i couldn’t stop laughing.  haha… put it in a vase and watched it because we knew it was ready to bloom…a few minutes later, it opened right in front of us!  Mateus couldn’t stop smelling the sweetness.  when he gets older, i bet you the first flower he will give his girlfriend will be a gardenia.  a gardenia right from our garden…  these are the sweetest smelling flowers in the world.  this smell makes us happy…

May 8, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Classic Ben Aipa in Tokyo.  Photo by Nao-san…

Good morning 3:45am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm and full moon!

Going to exercise.

Have a wonderful day!