been waking up super early and trying to be the first one in the ocean. paddling out at pitch dark and connecting to the waves. challenging and very spiritual. i just love it…
the waves have been super good everyday! perfect Bowls with a super good vibe. another South swell coming next week. bigger and better!
miss hanging out with cool guys like Rikita-san. he’s craving to come to Hawaii just as much as i’m craving to go to Japan. haha.
last year was the last time i cut my hair. haha. we still can’t get a haircut because of this lockdown. my hair in in my eyes, ears, and sometimes i can’t see or hear when i’m surfing. help!
Monthly Archives: May 2020
Haircut Wanted
The Last Dance…
so happy to get an email from Mama and Papa Iwata-san! walking in nature during this coronavirus time. keeping calm and being happy.
and eating Yamari shirasu! always so nice to hear from you Mama and Papa Iwata-san! see you guys soon!
omg, i just finished watching the 10 part series of The Last Dance. it’s about Michael Jordon’s 6 world champions. one of the most determined competitors in the world and probably the greatest of all time! i learned a lot about him and respect his determination even more. yesterday, i went to the store and bought a Gatorade without even thinking about it. i drank it and realized it’s been a few years since i even drank one. it must have been seeing him drinking Gatorade throughout the series that made me want to buy one. it’s crazy how much of an impact he has on marketing. and the only reason i didn’t buy Nike Air Jordon’s is because i couldn’t afford it. watch it on ESPN…
May 26, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report
Amy in the Evening…
Good morning 4:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!