“Don’t get mad.  It’s a waste of energy.  Just laugh…”  Nanami-san’s way of life…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i woke up at 2am this morning and was looking forward to surfing with the full moon!  when we paddled out, the clouds were covering the moon so it was pretty dark.

when i asked Hajime-san yesterday if he wanted to surf in the dark, he looked at me like i was crazy.  he’s never done it before so it does sound a little crazy.  but once we got out, all you could see was the moons reflection.  it was so beautiful!

when i was young, i use to moonlight surf after a long night of drinking.  so everything was a blur.  now that i don’t drink, i’m surfing everyday with a clear mind and it’s 100% better.  i’m living in the present moment and it’s wonderful!

and when you live in the present moment, it looks something like this.  i’m totally having the best moments of my life while the island is still sleeping…

although El Salvador is known to be one of the most dangerous countries in the world, i was determined to go surf some secret spots i heard about.  i walked the beach one evening trying to make friends with the locals.  then i came across these 3 kids that were eager to speak English and guide me to the barrels.  i told them i wanted to leave the next morning at 4am and they thought i was crazy.  now that i think about it, maybe i was crazy.  haha.  i wound’t advise anyone to drive there when it’s dark.

we drove 30 minutes down the coast and came upon houses.  we parked outside, walked through the house, and there was this perfect white sand beach break.  not a single person around i couldn’t be happier.  i asked the kids the name of the spot and they said they didn’t know.  haha.

then they took me to Punta Roca for more barrels.  the waves were super good and i’m sure the WCT guys are going to make that wave famous.  i’m happy for the local economy, but bummed for the traveling surfers like myself that surfed these spots alone.  i guarantee you that it will never be the same…

then at the end of the day, i get dropped off at my Casa.  there is a guard standing there 24 hours a day with his shotgun ready in hand.  you would think it would make me feel safe, but it only made me think “um, i wonder why we need this kind of security guarding my casa?”  haha.