Nanami-san became an Early Bird!   she’s up early in the morning smiling and ready to surf!  

another morning of smooth and clean conditions.  long rides too!

Daisuke-san with the sunrise wave.

if you’re doing it right, surfing will change your life.  it will make you healthier and happier.   but you have to do it right!  

it got super crowded and when the tide came high, the waves went flat!  today was the smallest day of the year but if you had the right board, it was epic!

this night on a secluded island in the Maldives was one of my Top 5 memorable nights of my life.  it was like it was out of a movie or something.  just us on this white beach island getting ready for an extravagant dinner.  i’ve never experienced anything like that before that, and after that.  so yes, a once in a lifetime night!

and we also made the biggest bonfire in my life too.  the only one bad memory from that night.  we were taken back to the boat after our beach party and the staff stayed to clean up.  the next day when we were on the boat heading to another island, i asked the staff what they did with all of that rubbish from our party?  he said they just buried it in the sand.  OMG!  what a nightmare!!!   i’m still traumatized by that!!!!

i use to take my own fishing poles and reels on our boat trips.  and yes, we use to catch a lot of fish with it!  another good memory without a nightmare at the end…

The Waiting Game…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds stronger today at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!