Uncle Exercise…

Good morning 3:15am.
South swell continues.
Ala Moana overhead and perfect.
Diamond Head 4′ and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

this swell wasn’t forecasted to be as big as it got.  after seeing it growing super fast yesterday evening, i thought it would be a great idea to paddle out and catch a few in the dark.  i sent my students out in the dark but i had a close eye on both of them.  not because you barely could see, but because it was BIG and dangerous getting out.

what i look for is facial expressions.  you don’t even have to tell me what you’re feeling because i can tell just by looking at you.  Daisuke-san was pretty calm considering this was the biggest day he’s ever surfed.

paddling out was crazy.  if you got one of these big sets breaking on you, you could easily break your board in half.  it was super powerful.

and when you paddle out, you better be calm going over the mountains because you need every second of your breath if there are more of these behind.

and if you know properly how to dive under the big sets, you will survive pretty easily.  so for my A+ students, you guys did great!!!!  sorry no photos but that’s because it was way too big for me to ride along the side of you.  i didn’t want to break my magic board.  haha.

then went back out this afternoon with Leo.  this kid was smiling and throwing “shakas” all the way!

and i got his 11’0 longboard in my face a few times.  abunai!!!

it was another close your eyes moment for Mateus.  i already knew how he would react when he sees this Japanese bumble gun maker!

when kids are this young, they are 100% pure!  so this smile is as pure as it gets.  thank you Uncle Toda-san and Aunty Takami-san!

my facial expression is the exact same at Mateus when i see a bag of goodies for me!

OMG, fresh shirasu from Yamari!!!  i’m so happy!

thank you always to the Yamari Family.  you guys all look wonderful.  miss you guys and can’t wait to go to Wakayama as soon as they let tourists like me into Japan.

Toda-san gave me some mangos so i’ve been drinking a mango smoothie right after surf.  it’s so delicious!

my Mom got out my Grandma’s dishes so we’ve been using them.  i think these are about a 100 years old?  we use to always use these for family dinners so it reminds me of my Grandma.

i was driving to the beach at 4:30am and saw a guy sleeping in his car at the traffic light.  he was probably coming home from an exciting Saturday Night Fever as i was heading to the beach.  i remember when i use to be driving home that late from drinking.  i don’t miss that lifestyle at all.  thank goodness i finally grew up.  haha…