this swell wasn’t forecasted to be as big as it got. after seeing it growing super fast yesterday evening, i thought it would be a great idea to paddle out and catch a few in the dark. i sent my students out in the dark but i had a close eye on both of them. not because you barely could see, but because it was BIG and dangerous getting out.
what i look for is facial expressions. you don’t even have to tell me what you’re feeling because i can tell just by looking at you. Daisuke-san was pretty calm considering this was the biggest day he’s ever surfed.
paddling out was crazy. if you got one of these big sets breaking on you, you could easily break your board in half. it was super powerful.
and when you paddle out, you better be calm going over the mountains because you need every second of your breath if there are more of these behind.
and if you know properly how to dive under the big sets, you will survive pretty easily. so for my A+ students, you guys did great!!!! sorry no photos but that’s because it was way too big for me to ride along the side of you. i didn’t want to break my magic board. haha.
then went back out this afternoon with Leo. this kid was smiling and throwing “shakas” all the way!
and i got his 11’0 longboard in my face a few times. abunai!!!
