i knew there were going to be some big sets today but it didn’t stop us from paddling out at dark.  the full moon guided us out.  it’s pretty peaceful until the moon disappears from your sight in front of you.  that means a HUGE wave is coming!  haha.

the ocean can teach you something different everyday. what we all should do is follow her, respect her, and go with her flow.  because if you fight her, you will lose.

Takeshi-san probably thinks we’re crazy.  going out to surf big waves in the dark is crazy when you think about it.  so welcome to the crazy club!

after practicing everyday for the past 40 days straight, you will conquer!

only 2 months of surfing for this newborn surfer.  his life will never be the same.  Takeshi-san will think about surfing 24 hours/day, 365 days a year.  i guarantee it!

for my very first foiling experience, Seth Moniz gave me a lesson.  he brought a 8’6 SUP board and just told me “you can do it.”  so we went out to see if “i can do it.”

this was my very first wave.  first of all, i can’t ride a SUP board even without a foil.  second, i got no instructions.  and last, i had ZERO confidence.  so when i popped up, the board lifted like a rocket and that scared me to death.  but i kind of liked it…

this is the last thing you want to do when you’re falling.  it looks like i was doing my downward dog yoga pose, but i was actually thinking to myself “ok, this sharp foil blade is going to cut me in half very soon.”

that day was one of the most embarrassing moments of my life.  but i liked it because i felt like a beginner again which was very humbling…

then the 2nd time i went foiling, i ended up in the Emergency Room at Straub Hospital.  even more humbled and made me want to master this dangerous sport.  if i quit then, that would have been the biggest regret of my life.  and that’s why i kept on pushing forward.

one month later, i felt like a brand new man.  humbled, happy, and most of all, FREE!!!!

NEVER SAY NEVER…

Jr. Sailing Club…

Good morning 3:30am.
BIG surf!
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, rainbows, and super low and king high tide.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!