WSL: A Star is Born

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 i went to get a full body massage and it turned out to be good, and bad.  good because the lady was really good, bad because the lady forgot to massage my arms.   she said “no more time.”  really? weather has been funky here.  heavy rain off and on.  but amazing views like this so it’s all good. wet surfers don’t get to ride in the car, they ride in the back.   this is a professional surfers job.   rain or shine… woke up this morning, foiled, watch the contest, and foiled again.  two rounds of foiling the longest wave in my life. Seth is fully prepared for anything.  i don’t know how he can be so calm? maybe it’s easy to stay calm when you’re staying in a place like this? this was a couple of hours before his heat this morning.  the media following Seth around everywhere.   and so cool to see a bunch of his Hawaiian friends fly all the way here to support him.  i know it means a lot to  him. i will remember this day for the rest of my life.  Seth beat world #2 Julian Wilson in round 1.  he beat him with both surfing, and strategy.   very impressive for his World Tour debut.  welcome to the Moniz era… now this kid has fans all over the world.   and little fans too.  Seth loves kids so he will always take the time out for a photo or autograph.   seen a huge poster of Kelia on the wall so decided to take a photo with her.  haha…after Seth won his heat, we went to eat a healthy and happy lunch.  i was so tired from being so nervous for him all day long.  all i want is the best for this kid and win or lose, we will love him the same…

then went for a sunset foil session with Tony.  i rode a wave for over 2 minutes.  it was the closest feeling of flying like a bird for so long.  will foil 2 rounds again tomorrow.  can’t wait!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide