today, the waves don’t get much bigger than this. in fact, it was the biggest day of the year so far. but for me, that doesn’t matter. if i say go, we go! the waves were so big that Oshima-san and i had to paddle through the Ala Wai Channel to get out. 
this is the easiest, but also the longest way to get out. but days like this, all it takes is one wave to change your life…
we stopped at the Big Bowl and watched the boys getting barreled. this is the best seat you can find! 
we finally get out, i tell Oshima-san to keep calm and when i say go, you better go. i see the mountain coming, i’d say about double overhead coming for us. i yell “GO!” he turns around, paddles, and catches the wave of his life! 
i’ve surfed with Oshima-san many times but today was the biggest by far. and he caught the biggest wave of his life! look at him go! 
after that, he wanted another one! haha. i know how happy Oshima-san was because i’ve been there before. same thing, same feeling…
welcome to the big wave surf club Oshima-san! i knew you could do it! and now that you rode mountains, everything else will be so easy for you…
although it looked like a calm day, it was the total opposite when the sets came. only the strong could make it out today. everybody else must have went to work because there was nobody out. haha. 
was it really 38 C degrees today??? it seemed even hotter than that. 
went back to Bowls for round 2 with Karino-san. then passed by Diamond Head on the way home. i was way to tired to foil…
this kid brings so much joy to my life. every time i see him, he says “hey unko, when you going to take me surfing again?” then he makes jokes after jokes and i can’t stop laughing… love you Mateus…
