Loving Live to the Fullest…

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 so happy to see Mai-chan back in Hawaii!  but more happy is for me to make my return back into the sea!  from the time i jumped on my board, i felt reborn!   Mai-chan transforming into a woman!  smoother surfing and calmer personality.   and walking the board beautifully!   i told myself not to ride a wave today because i still can’t get my eye wet.  so much for that idea… the feeling of my first wave in 2 weeks was incredible.  i felt free, i felt clean, and i felt so content… cross stepping into Diamond Head… good job Mai-chan.  always good to see your smile back in Hawaii!  as for me, i did a good job because not a drop of water went into my eye.  i was one eye surfing and smiling all day long!   Toda-san stopped by my house later.  when he seen my new toy, he had to take it for a try.  he was so excited that he drove up my hill on the wrong side of the street!!!  wrong side Toda-san!!!   luckily there wasn’t a car coming down the street because they would have freaked out on this big guy riding a small bike.   haha.  i’m glad i’m not the only one loving my new toy.  it’s a Honda MSX125 Grom to be exact!  then as sunset approached, i went to ride through Waikiki and stopped for this sunset.  a wonderful ending to a wonderful day!  i’m back in the ocean now so all the shopping stops now.  i’m back to normal!  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide