Calm and Cool Doctor

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one of my magic boards is so magic that i must have used it a thousand times.  there where holes, dings, and i never had time to fix it.  so i sent it to Gen and he patched everything up.

then i scrapped off the dirty wax, took off the stickers, and sanded it.

this board brought thousands of happy rides, and millions of smiles.  now i’m going to take it over to Jeannie Chesser and let her artistic talent bring it back to life.  i’ll let you know how it turns out…

the other day while i was diving, my line broke.  so i tied it up and shot my dinner.  now it’s fixed to perfection.  can’t wait to use it again…

i was craving salmon so went to Whole Foods and bought this fresh piece for $6.

salt, pepper, and olive oil.  simply fried to perfection.

my health dinner after a healthy day…

want to thank Ikuko-san and Mauna-chan for the snacks!

my previous doctor got sick so i had to look for another one.  when i walked into my new doctors office for the first time, i knew i found the right one!  he’s a surfer!

hopefully this doctor will understand that i need the ocean just as much as he does.   he asked me how i was feeling…

i told him, “hey Doc, i’m feeling very healthy and very happy.  please keep me that way…”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide