i’ve been teaching surfing for a very long time. and the most common error i notice for advanced surfers is weight distribution. a lot of surfers put too much weight on their front foot. if you do that, you will push the front of your surfboard down and make it stop. it’s like pushing on the brake. the correct way it to push off your back foot like this. then the board will speed up, throw spray, and drive from turn into turn. your surfboard is designed to work this way so go out and try it. and i’m sure you’ll love it. 
and i’m sure you’ll love this too. i ate 2 scoops, one vanilla and one Kona coffee. yeah, i think i like coffee again! 
then went with Carter to try out a new restaurant. omg, this raw oyster was amazing! so creamy! 
then the Chef was my surfer friend so he made us some Oyster Rockefeller. amazing…
then we ordered the bone marrow bibimbap. i’ve never tried anything like this before. 
and it turned out to be the best bibimbap and the best happy hour i had in a long time! 
exactly 7 months ago today, this local surfer almost died in the water. he would surf Bowls every single day and when i went to visit him in the Emergency Room that day, the first thing he asked me was “do you think i will be able to surf again?” i told him “of course you will!” but honestly, i wasn’t to sure. so just seeing him back in the water every day where he left off is like a miracle. i’m so happy to see this man back loving his second chance at life. look how beautiful this wave is!
you inspire me dude. welcome back to the big days of surfing! 
i was snorkeling off Waikiki with Asayama-san when this Tiger shark pulled up. Asayama-san stayed calm outside, but i’m sure he was freaking out inside. i try to teach to everyone including kids, that you cannot panic in the ocean. so when the 37 year old diver died yesterday at Haleiwa after panicking when he saw a shark, i sent the news to a few of my friends. it’s a very sad story, but also so real. no matter what happens in the ocean, you have to keep calm. it could be a life or death decision for you…
