Bacon and Flu Shot

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i took a 2 day break because my shoulder has been in a lot of pain.  it was the first time in 30 years that my body told me “brah, you work too much.  give me a break.”  haha.

stayed at a dream house overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  it was so beautiful…

i was practicing how my life will be when i retire.  sip on an ice cold beer each and every sunset from my balcony.  can’t wait!

i always eat healthy when i’m on Oahu.  so when i travel, i eat what ever i want.  and i wanted bacon!

my dream vacation!

Toda-san doesn’t have to be on vacation to eat what ever he wants.  he eats it anyway!  haha…

how many people wash their car at 6am in the morning?  only me?  haha…  i was sweating!!!

then picked up Seira-chan and it was already 31 degrees!  omg!  i took her to my secret spot for the first time and she loved it!  she caught her biggest wave of her life and caught any wave she wanted.  no stress and only peace for us.  i told her it would be totally different than Bowls and now she knows why…

went to the doctor to have my shoulder checked out.  he put me on ibuprofen for now and i hope this pain goes away!!!

got a flu shot on the way out and now i’m ready to go surf again.  sunset surf this evening so gotta go.  have a wonderful evening!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide