You are a Gift…

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i’ve never free dove on the Big Island before so i was amazed on how beautiful the water was.  the visibility was amazing… and i couldn’t believe how many fish there were!  i didn’t take my spear this time but next time i will for sure.  then we will eat meals everyday provided from the ocean… when people see Seira-chan surfing, they always tell me how good she is.  then i tell them that she just started surfing a couple years ago and they can’t believe it.   in just a short time, she can find waves on her own, paddle into it, and surf it really good from start to finish.   i’m always keeping an eye on her but she’s totally fine surfing by herself.  and surfing better and better each day.   OMG!  Seira-chan showed me this photo of her 2 years ago when i took her surfing.  when ever i get a new student, about 99% of them surf exactly like this.  then after some yelling, screaming, scolding, and even breaking them mentally down, things will get better.  everybody knows i’ll do anything to get those bad habits fixed, including crushing their pride, and even making them cry.  frustration, panic, and even tears, i’ll do what i have to do because when those bad habits are gone, you’re going to love your life 100x more…fast forward 2 years and this girl is surfing like an olympian.  good girl Seira-chan!  and for all of you who want to surf better, let me take you.  but be prepared to get frustrated, mad, and maybe even cry.  but at the end of the day, you will go home very calm and very happy… Seira-chan’s fortune cookie read “YOU ARE GIFTED IN MANY WAYS.”  that was a well written fortune for a well gifted girl… the world is yours!  get ready for a big and bright future ahead!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide