glad to see Rikita-san feeing much better this morning. it sucks getting food poisoning and super bummed it happened to him in Hawaii. but now that his body is fully detoxed, he will be a healthier man!
lighter and calmer. that makes for better surfing like this.
i was following Rikita-san with my foil and we were loving the ride together.
it feels super good to get in front of him like this and shoot from high up.
then once i pass him, he does his cutback and we separate. he goes right and i continue going left. can’t share a wave like this any other way… great surfing Rikita-san!
then a nice fruit acai bowl to fill up this mans body with vitamins and minerals…
my stomach is fine so i ate the smoked salmon with cream cheese and avocado sandwich. so good!
then we went to learn about twin fin surfboards. met up with my long time friend Akila Aipa on the North Shore. we got to peak at Kelly Slater’s new boards that he’ll be riding very soon. good to see you Akila!
thank you Rikita-san for a wonderful time of Boot Camp. getting sick when you’re in another country sucks. BUT, i believe everything happens for a reason. we both learned how travel insurance works, we both learned where the nearest hospital to Bowls is, and we both learned that our body is our treasure. keep healthy and keep happy! have a safe trip back to Japan and see you again soon!
