FLASHBACK: Last Christmas Eve

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surf and dive.  that’s a combination for a great life…

been working on Mayuki.  buying parts and finding out it’s the wrong size sucks!  omg…

and when you close the lid on your finger, that sucks too!  ouch…

Oosawa-san is from Ibaraki.  he hasn’t been surfing too long so this lesson was about style.  since the waves were small, i just told him to ride it and go with the flow in style.  just like this!

imagine coming to Hawaii for the first time.  arriving in the morning, surfing in the evening.  watching the sunset and riding the longest waves in your life.  must feel good huh?

yeah, this surfer boy was loving his life.  so stoked to be in Hawaii and surfing at the famous Ala Moana Bowls…

good surfing and good style Oosawa-san!

last Christmas Eve, David was on the brink of losing his life.  but God said it wasn’t his time to go.  some people in this world gets a second chance, some don’t.  just something to think about and it can make anybody appreciate each and every day a lot more.  even i learned how to love my life even more since that day…

David hasn’t ridden this board ever since that day, 12/24/18.  so bringing it out yesterday must have been emotional for him.  i think that is great that he rode it because that’s called “moving forward.”  surfer and board connecting again.  an amazing story with a happy ending…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide