Surf, Pancake, and Surf

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Boot Camp Day 3 with Tomami-san started off this morning.  up until now, i would assist her into some waves, but today, i told her “you’re on your own!”  so every wave she caught, she did it all by herself.  that’s amazing…

and when you can surf 100% with all your effort, it feels 1000% better…

gosh, it was another perfect day for the beach.  good for an outer island trip on Mayuki!  hopefully soon!!!

so sad to see rubbish in the ocean, especially plastic.  please pick up your trash everybody…

some of my friends said the waves were small this morning, but not too small for us!  this would be the wave of the day in some parts of Japan.  so yeah, we’ll take it!

right after we finished our morning session, Tomami-san asked if we can surf again this evening.  haha.  she’s addicted to surfing!

so i went to fuel up on some food.  pancakes from Liliha Bakery.  loved it!

then back out this afternoon and the waves were still super fun.  nobody out again and we had this spot to ourselves!

more waves and more happiness.  thank you Tomami-san for the great time in Hawaii.  see you next year with the Pavilion Surf Club Team from Shikoku.  keep on surfing!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide