so stoked to take Tomomi-san surfing for her very first time! this was her first wave of her life and surely not her last! this is absolutely perfect surfing style!
yeah, i’d be stoked too! good job girl!
Nishiwaki-san was up next. a very good short boarder but today i asked him if he ever longboarded before? he said “no.” so i said “want to try?” a very open minded man that wanted to take the challenge. and just by surfing the longboard today, he’s a way better surfer for sure.
such a cool and happy man. willing to take the challenge and succeed…
i would recommend to every short board surfer to take the challenge and try to longboard. it’s super hard to do but once you figure it out, it will help your surfing skills and when you jump on your shortboard the next time, you will be surprised! try it…
Tomomi-san caught about 15 long rides. can you believe she never fell not even once??? if you surf super stable like this, you won’t fall. simple… welcome to the new surfing world!
such a wonderful couple! so happy to surf with you guys today and i’m pretty sure surfing will connect you even more. keep looking forward both in the water, and also in life…
from the time we paddled out, there was a rainbow until the time we paddled in. then it wound’t go away and i followed it all the way home. so yeah, this rainbow lasted for over 3 hours!
i’m looking for my next destination. this home in the secluded mountain looks pretty inviting. i feel like jumping in the snow! can’t wait…
