70 Years Young…

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took out Renta-kun early this morning.  he was on the longboard, i was on the foil taking this drone shot.  cool!we met this cool surfer guy.  his name is Matt and i was so impressed because Renta-kun was talking to him in English.  Matt is 70 years old!  we were talking and he was so excited to be surfing at his age.  i told him about 70 year old Asayama-san surfing at Pipeline.  haha.  anyway, Matt asked me for advice and i told him:  start doing yoga and you will surf forever.  good surfing Matt.  glad you went to check out the yoga studio after our session.  and i’m looking forward to giving you a surf lesson.  your life will never be the same…just like how this kids life will never be the same.  Renta-kun is a surfer.  cool, calm, and all the girls will be chasing him soon.  haha…from a shy kid a few years ago, to a very confident young man.  Matt told me how happy Renta-kun looked after every ride.  so stoked to hear that…  then went for an evening session and learned a lot about waves, boards, and how to have fun…from sunrise to sunset, the ocean is my home.  goodnight…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide