Nissei Soldiers…

259

Matsu sent me this photo from Spain.  he said it’s a perfect wave for foiling!  it’s funny how us foilers see waves very differently ever since we started foiling.  anything and everything is ridable…the colors of fall in Hawaii… seen this magazine on the stand.  i’m going to read it.  i studied in college about these brave 2nd Generation Japanese/American warriors.  bravery, courage, and commitment…found some tako in my freezer.  Kelia is going to make squid luau for our Christmas dinner!  back to the Pipeline Masters.  so much talk the day after the event…want to thank everyone that texted me and supported Seth this whole year.  the waves in his heat with Kelly wasn’t good at all.  that was a bummer.  but to think about the year Seth had, it was amazing.  i’m so proud of this kid!  if you seen the intentional interference Gabriel did to Caio, you will either love him for his competitiveness, or you will hate him for his ruthlessness.  i think that was very smart on his part, but at the same time, it was very unsportsmanlike.  there’s talk right now that another rule in the WSL rulebook might penalize him for doing that because it was intentionally.  then he might lose some overall points that might cost him his Olympic spot?  stay tuned because Brazil won’t be happy if that happens.  there was already death threats on Caio and i’m sure there will be a lot more after this.  the sad thing is it wasn’t even Caio’s fault.  welcome to the social media trashing world…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide