A Renta Day…

330

went to check up on Renta-kun to see how his Hawaii lifestyle is going.  he didn’t know i was there until i said “hey Renta!”  he was surprised to see me.  and so was everybody else.  haha.  i bet his friends were thinking “who is that loud guy?”  haha…after his paddling practice, we went surfing!  i put him on a smaller board and he adapted instantly.  gosh, the waves were so beautiful!!!  we scored!like always, we have good conversations.  and we’re laughing most of the time.  Renta just told me “why are all those people waiting for the waves way on the outside?  the waves don’t even break there!”  haha.  i told him, that’s where you use to wait too before.  haha….calm and cool.  this is how you’re supposed to surf.i was going to foil but after the offshore winds were creating barrels, i took my shortboard and got barreled.  it was an easy choice!gosh, i just love this kid…this boy is going to grow up into something special.  athlete?  business man?  surfer?  i don’t know yet, but he’s going to be something special…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide