i got up early and knew Diamond Head was going to be excellent. and to my surprise, it was even better than i thought. a new South swell is pushing swells in the perfect direction. i was running down the hill because i wanted to foil so badly!
then had to come home and wait for the delivery guys again. every time they come to deliver appliances, something is always wrong. but today, it was looking good!!!
until i saw the corner of the range bent!!! omg! the guy told me he would give me a discount if i kept it. and being that this always happens, i took the discount because this felt like it was never ending. and i’m tired of waiting for Hawaiian time delivery. haha…
then right after the delivery guys left, i went straight back to Diamond Head. once again, it was better than i thought! perfect lines of swells hitting the reef and providing 1 minute long rides on the surfboard. 2 minutes on my foil. haha. get ready for tomorrow because it will be a carbon copy of today. or maybe even better!
