Lonely Pua’ena Point

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last night i thought about doing something different today.  so i took Seira-chan to the North shore.  her first time at Pua’ena Point, and i even gave her a board she’s never rode before.  i told her “go out by yourself, figure it out, and connect with the ocean.  and today was the best day for that because it was empty!  look at this beautiful wave!

Seira-chan figured it out, connected, and had a wonderful session at a very cool surf spot.

before we paddled out, i thought it was going to be super crowded being a Saturday.  BUT, there were only a couple surfers and a couple foilers out.  i’ve never seen Pua’ena Point this uncrowded in my life…

had a good talk with the 2 foilers out.  this Hawaiian said there are usually 20 foilers out on a day like today.  he was so stoked to have it just for us…

as i was pumping around on my foil, Seira-chan was carving around on her shortboard.

and looking really good doing it.

clean water and heavy wipeouts for me today.  haha…

had some big swells passing us by.  it felt so good to be in an empty ocean that was so strong and alive…

lucky girl again!  i think we got the best of the best today!

it amazes me how nobody even comes close to me when i’m on my foil.  maybe they’re scared?  maybe they’re mad?  what ever it is, thank you because i love it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide