Illegal Surfing

206

omg, i just watched this documentary.  the Unabomber: In his own words.  i remember when i was growing up watching the news about this guy that was mailing bombs to people.  all the things he thought about then seemed so twisted, but when you look how our world is now, he actually made sense.  a very smart Harvard graduate that almost outsmarted the FBI.  almost…  very interesting…since i finally have time off, i’m sending all my boards off to get repaired.  the surf repair business is still open and surfers still need to work…this pro surfer got arrested in Costa Rica for surfing.  the beach was closed and the police was waiting.  then another guy in New York got a $1,000 ticket for surfing.  some people in the world must think they are stupid, but i can relate to their needs.  surfers will die without the ocean so you shouldn’t take that away from them…good to see all the lookouts at Diamond Head closed.  it keep people from gathering around.  good call.there have been so many surfers in the ocean.  everybody respecting each others space and style.  it’s kind of cool to see everybody smiling at this crazy time…

and happy to see the turtles being left alone from the tourists.  i’m happy for them, and i’m sure they’re happy too.  nature is returning to nature.  i love it…
KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide