Days of Innocence…

198

i just love the windless mornings.  you can pull up to Diamond Head in the morning and just be amazed.  far in the distance, you can see Molokai and Lanai.  these days make for the cleanest air in the world…and waves everywhere!  as of now, you can exercise, run, bike, surf, fish, and swim.  what you can’t do is sit on the beach, read a book, or sunbathe.  my friend was just checking the waves at Diamond Head and the police told him “either go surf now, or go home.”  and now they are cracking down on people that are not following the rules.  these rules were made for a reason so please obey.  if we continue to do this, the virus will fade away.  if we don’t, many more people will die…so now i look back and pull up old photos.  here is young Kairi Noro leaning some survival techniques.  we had a great time surfing and free diving…check this photo of Buddy and Isaiah when they were little kids.  i would take them out on my boat to surf, fish, and just be kids.  those were the days of innocence…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide