Lucky 3

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seeing this little Subaru Sanbar on the road yesterday.  this guy must have just bought it because i know a guy that was selling it. so cool!  i’m still looking for my dream Japanese car!  today was Sunday so everywhere was crowded from early morning.  i took my time and knew exactly what time and where to go.  so watching it all morning, i left a 11am.  passing by Bowls and it was still crowded.  it always is…pulled up to the best right on the South shore, Three’s!  there were only 3 guys out so i thought i was at the wrong place???  earlier there were 30 guys out.  where did everybody go?  threw in the anchor and had the most amazing Sunday session.  after an hour, lots of surfers came out but we were done.  timed it perfectly!  picked up some poke and beers.  the perfect end of a perfect day!  South swell continues tomorrow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide