on the big day at Bowls, i paddled out in the dark with Mike Ho. on the way out, we were talking about surfboards. talking about how short the boards people are riding now days. 30 years ago, we would be on a foot longer boards on big days like this for sure. 
Mike Ho is a legend. if he paddles for a wave, don’t even try it. the local boys know that because of the respect for him. only the idiots paddle for his waves…
if you want to get barreled on the smaller days at Bowls, bodyboarding for sure. the barrels are oval so you have to ride on the top part of the wave.
but if you want to get barreled on the rights, you have to look around and you will find lots of barrels on the South Shore! this day i had the best barrels of my townie life out there…
got a text from one of the girls: “omg, my body still hurts!” i texted her back “never tell me to go faster.” haha…
