during the biggest day of the swell, i get a text from Donald “where you going foiling today?” then i get one right after from Fabian “where you going foiling today?” my reply was “i ain’t foiling today. i’m going to go get barreled!” as i’m getting the perfect barrels at Big Rights, guess who i see paddle out on their surfboards??? yup, Donald and Fabian. haha…
i got the first wave of the set, i get barreled and pull out. then i see Fabian on the next one getting ready for something you can’t do on a foil. barrel ahead! 
omg, this wave was so good! i was screaming!!! glad you boys came out because if you didn’t, i’d tell you all about the best day of the year you missed! and now that the waves came down, let’s go foil!
Fabian was ducking under this wave and got a sneak peak of me taking off. no barrel shots for me this day but the barrels will be etched in my memory for years to come. it was one of the biggest and best Big Right’s i’ve ever surfed in my life! can’t wait for the next swell…
