yesterday i had a great time surfing with Hiro-san and Rina-san. we surfed back in july and i was surprised on how much they both improved since then. i haven’t met such an energetic couple before. they competed and completed the Maui XTERRA World Champion Triathlon 3 days ago. yes, the same one Lance Armstrong entered. they flew to Oahu 2 days ago. then yesterday, they ran the ala wai before i picked them up, we surfed bowls and i couldn’t believe how much energy they had. the image i had all this time of Rina-san was a cute and quiet girl with so much energy. but after Hiro-san told me she’s black belt in karate, everything changed. now, Rina-san is ABUNAI. if you can kick somebody’s head, your dangerous!
To Hiro-san and Rina-san, Thank you for a great surf session yesterday. And please tell my your secret to so much energy. I would like to have some. In fact, I need some. Enjoy your last day in Hawaii and see you somewhere. Shikoku? Hawaii? Mahalo, Kirby
when i use to surf sunset with tony moniz 20 years ago, we use to surf out there all day on the big days. i remember taking off on 15′ sets way on the outside and when i came into the inside bowl, the wave use to break on my head. and if you ever had sunset break on your head, you know that it hurts! about 15 years ago, i finally figured out that pulling in the barrel and wiping out is much safer than going straight and having the wave break on your head. and pulling in the barrel feels and sounds like thunder! i love it!
i’ve been surfing so much recently that i’m as dark as a japanese can get, and i’m starting to love the ocean more and more. can i retire tomorrow and just surf all day everyday? that’s my next dream. haha.
