Dangerous Eject Button

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foiled super early this morning and on my last wave, i tried to ride my foil over the very shallow reef.  i failed!  haha.  my foil hit and i flew over right into the dry reef.  instead of landing face first, i turned my body sidewards so landed on my butt and hand.  ouch!i saw a group of surfers wearing face masks walking to the beach.  good guys!  and yesterday we had over 600 tourists come into Hawaii.  i guarantee you not everyone is doing the mandatory 14 day quarantine.  there are people getting arrested every day for breaking quarantine.  and your name and photo will be on the news…    came home and played with the kids.  they love to pick weeds and bugs to feed to Pepper.  can you believe Pepper is still alive and healthy after all these years?  so happy! Mateus loves to feed Pepper too.  and Pepper loves Mateus!i went under a wave with my foil and had no idea somebody literally ran me over!  people think foilers are dangerous but i always tell them, everybody is dangerous!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide