was heading out to the North Shore at 5am. i was thinking “go out there and foil one session, or stay in town and possible foil 2 sessions?” took the next exit and did a U-Turn. best decision of my life…
omg, i paddled out at dark again and Diamond Head was so good! only 1 guy out for a while and we had the whole ocean to ourselves. i was telling him about my U-turn story. he looked at me like i was crazy. haha.
foiled until he sunrise and i was totally satisfied!
the sky was so blue!
kind of cool looking at Waikiki from this angle. in the dark, you could see 3 big hearts lighted up on the hotels.
then straight after that, i headed to Bowls. i had a feeling it was going to be really good and most of the morning crew would be going in. right when i got out, i swear i saw 15 locals paddling in. perfect timing!
and omg, the waves were super good! shoulder high sets and absolutely perfect. i was foiling these waves and every time i took off, i felt like i was taking off at 10′ Pipeline! so exciting and no wipeouts today! so happy!
