Yellow and Blue Bowls

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since this pandemic has started, lots of people aren’t working so i’ve been seeing a lot of toys.  even though that black sports car is probably worth 10x more than that classic Ford truck, i’d choose that truck for sure. i just love Ford trucks and maybe i can get one of these in the future.  i almost pulled on the side of this guy to ask him if he was selling it.  haha.i foiled Diamond Head early this morning and i saw one of the most beautiful sunrises i’ve ever seen!  then i needed more so i went to Bowls in the afternoon.  it was absolutely perfect!when i got out, there were only 2 locals out.  lots of beginners so it looked crowded, but when the sets came, i was on one of them for sure.  been seeing a lot of surfer girls out there too.  longboarding and loving life…this guys name is Ian.  he found my gopro a year after i lost it and returned it to me.  nice and honest guy.  and Ian is also the best surfer in the inside Bowl.  nobody knows that wave and surfs it better than him.  he surfs like Rob Machado, or even better…then some fresh carpaccio for dinner.  eat healthy and live healthy.  i’m going sleep at 7pm tonight.  waking up at 2:30am again and going to surf with the sunrise.  goodnight…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide