Pretending Indonesia

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 since i haven’t been able to travel and have so much free time, i finally have the chance of looking back and reminiscing.  a million memories throughout the past 30 years of traveling around the world.  most of those memories with this man who showed me and taught me about the world, Tokura-san!  every single boat trip we have sashimi parties.  while the boys surf, i go dive.  everybody’s happy during Bintang beer time.  for the 12 day boat trip, you won’t eat that much sashimi in your life! and waking up the next morning and looking at waves like this outside the little window from the boat.  this is HT’s and i’ve got some of the best barrels in my life out there.  these smaller ones that break over the shallow razor sharp reef are the best, but also the most riskiest.  there are no hospitals around here.  in fact, the closest one is 12 hours away by boat.  kind of scary when i think about it now.  but when i’m in the barrel, getting hurt is the last thing on my mind…check out these 4 Mike Woo foil boards getting glassed right now in Bali.  2 are for Matsu, and 2 are for me.  almost done and i can’t wait to get them!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide