Sweet and Sour People

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ok, i finally picked one of the sudachi off my tree.  this is the first time i’m going to try it so i was a little nervous.

when i cut it open, the juices actually flew into my face!  i tasted it and it was sour in the beginning, then became sweet.  wow!  so i squeezed one over my grilled fish and it was amazing!!!   the next one i pick will go into my shochu!

the crowds have been crazy and if you ask any local surfer, he will tell you the same.  i’ve been trying to stay away from the crowds because i don’t go surfing to watch other people surf, i go out to surf.  and when it’s crowded, i feel guilty when i catch too many waves.  well, just a little guilty…

so today i wait for the tide to come up, and headed to Diamond Head.  omg!!!  there were only 2 surfers out!  i grabbed my foil and headed out.  one guy went in and ended up surfing for an hour with only my friend Jay.  he couldn’t believe it was only us!  we talked between sets and shared wave after wave.  it was like a dream session.  where was everybody today???

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide