RISS is Carissa Moore

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i watched this program on TV called Riss.  it’s a documentary about Carrisa Moore.  it shows her following her dreams as a child and achieving all of them, and even more.  the first time i saw Carissa surf was when she was 8 years old.  her dad was pushing her into waves at Diamond Head and i was super impressed.  this little girl with the cutest smile, and most of all, the best style i’ve ever seen.  she was always happy, and always determined.  throughout the years, i saw her and her Father training all over Hawaii.  i watched his style of coaching and i watched her style of learning.  i saw her happy, and i also saw her sad.  in fact, i’ve seen Carissa crying more than a few times.  that made her stronger and wanting even more.  i could see the fire in this girl and now after 3 World Champions, she proved that hard work pays off.   but what i learned most was watching how her Father coached her.  i’ve made more than a few of my students cry and i really felt bad at the time.  if you want to get good, you have to see the bottom before you can get to the top.  so yeah, sorry for making you cry if i ever did.  but i don’t regret that at all.  haha…

watch this film and hope you can get inspired and become your own champion!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide