Life of Bula…

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there was a big Hawaiian surfer who use to hang out under this tree everyday.  always super nice to me and always giving everybody the aloha.  well, i just found out he was riding his bike on the North Shore and somebody hit him with their car, and ran away.  so my friend Bula is dead, and the girl who hit him still didn’t get caught.  i was so sad to hear that.  it’s so crazy how someones life can end so fast.  Bula always would take his daughter surfing on his board and i will miss their smiles….so now is a new day.  everyday i appreciate things, but now i appreciate things even more.  so waking up and maximizing each day to the fullest is the way i’m going to live out the rest of my life…and now i have motivation to shoot photos, and take my family surfing when ever they want to.  and to see the happy smiles of my friends is super precious.  always good to see Mari-chan!  this is the last wave of my morning.  happy to be in the ocean, and happy to be alive…and this is my last wave of the day in the evening.  just happy to live another day…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide