Spray is Everything!

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everybody asks me if i still surf.  yes i do!  it’s funny because most foilers only foil so when they try to surf again, they can’t.  everything feels weird and it takes time to surf normally again.  i do both so i’m comfortable on a foil board as well as a short board.  no, my surfing isn’t as good as it was before, but i’d give that up in a heartbeat to foil how i’m foiling right now.  but give me a good wave and a good board and i’ll surf any day of the week…my friend Justin was shooting one day.  next day i see him and he said “hey, what’s your instagram?  i want to send you some sick photos.”  i said, i don’t have instagram.  he thought i was joking.  haha.  i gave him my phone number and he texted me this sequence.  when i opened the message, i was pretty happy.  i was riding my new board shaped by Gen and it was only my 2nd time.  i’ve been on the foil a lot so haven’t surfed for a while.  but once i connected with the board and the wave, things were back to normal.i love doing backside snaps.  i love to push the tail as hard as i can so i can throw some big spray.  it feels so good when the board releases off the back and you’re in control.  and it looks pretty cool too.thank you Justin for making me feel good because i felt good after seeing these beautiful photos.  see you in the water!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide