early morning session for me again. paddled out at dark and rode endless waves like a free bird! 
amazing sunrises day after day…
then i checked the waves this afternoon and i couldn’t believe it! a lot of empty parking stalls, nobody on the beach, new South swell, lot’s of waves, and no locals! i grabbed my shortboard and went surfing! super fun and super lucky session. yeah!
one guy came up to me and said “wow, that’s sexy!” i was surprised because i thought he said that to me, but he was actually talking about my foil board. haha… but yeah, it is pretty sexy…
