another golden moment this morning at Diamond Head. the waves were so fun and the sunrise was so amazing. i felt like a free bird panning over the ocean. an amazing feeling…
i’m pretty sure this was the best spot of the morning. it was hard to come in…
good to see Matsu and Toda-san hanging out in Shonan. gosh, i wish i was there with them!!! i’m pretty sure they’re foiling much better than before too.
and to see Nao-san living the Shonan surfer girl life is cool. i’m still amazed on how far this girl has come. she’s living the free lifestyle…
and because everybody else is getting better at foiling, i’ve been practicing too. i don’t care about pumping the foil around anymore, all i care about is surfing my foil like how i surf my shortboard.
and when i do an off the lip on a waist high wave, it feels like it’s a 10′ wave. so i’m surfing huge waves everyday! haha…
