good morning. waves 6-10′ on the north shore. pipe looks not too good because the swell is more out of the north now. i bet haleiwa and sunset are the spots. there’s a little south swell running in town. maybe waist high with quite a few guys out at rockpiles and bowls already. waves for everybody today. get out and grab one. have a nice day…
**dec. 3rd was an awesome day. surf perfect waves in the morning, celebrate with friends at night…. kona winds all day and all night!!!! thanks so much aunty laurie and galen for the awesome photos….
ok, remember i said that backdoor was almost a perfect 10 that morning? except for the crowd. now you know what i mean? i’m somewhere in there. by the way, this is my office. so if you think i go to the north shore to play around, your crazy. i go there to work. and just getting one wave for yourself is freakin hard work. you go try….
mar ono is one of the best surfers to come out of japan. and after all these years of him coming to hawaii, this is the best photo i’ve ever seen of him surfing pipe. i was paddling out when i seen him get this wave. then he went in. shit, i would have too… nice wave mar. if you want this photo or want to see the sequence, let me know and i’ll ask galen. this one’s a keeper. and galen, you probably don’t even know you took this killer photo of one of japan’s surf stars. i’m pretty sure i’ll be getting an email from some japanese magazine wanting to publish this shot. that’s why i put on the water mark on it…
todd’s party at willow’s was awesome. i was walking around all night feeling so happy because i couldn’t believe the turnout. 3 live bands, great food, free beer, silent auction, disco club. no, just joking on the disco. but it was awesome because i seen so many friends there who knew todd, and so many friends who didn’t know todd. but you know what? it didn’t matter if you knew him or not. we were all surfers who knew that it could have been any one of us getting attacked by a shark that day. it was like a bond of surfers and if you went to the party, you know exactly what i mean. wanted to say congrats to the jason mijo and the east side boys who set up the event. it was awesome and one of the best parties i’ve ever attended. todd was walking around fine and it was great to see him smiling all night. if i need help planning a party, i’m calling the east side boys for sure…
i was pounding some drinks with kainoa and reid. i think we were the last ones to leave the party. free drinks? i wasn’t going anywhere. i think even todd left before us? haha.
and my crewmates from our timor boat trip ceri and aunty laurie. 2 cool chicks. wendell, don’t worry, your photo coming up tomorrow. ladies first.. and galen, thanks again for the cool photos.
