whenever i take people surfing, many ask me “do you think i can rent a board and come out here by myself?” my answer is always the same: first, you won’t know where to wait for a wave. that takes years of experience. the reason you catch 15 waves per session is because i’m putting you in the perfect spot. second, there are currents, reefs, canoes, and catamarans. when i’m with you, i’m always watching out for you. if you go alone, nobody is watching you. third, you wouldn’t know who is local and who isn’t local. and if you drop in on the wrong person, you might get punched. it’s happened to a couple surfers i told they’re not ready to surf alone, but decided to go anyway. if you go with me, somebody will have to punch me before they punch you. that’s just how it is. so if i don’t get a black eye, you won’t. and even though i get a black eye, you still won’t. haha… and these reasons doesn’t only apply to Hawaii, this is an International rule. so where ever you travel in this world, surf with a local and you will have the best experience. that’s what i always do…
a lot of people think Waikiki doesn’t have rules. and a lot of people find out they were wrong after they get a 11′ longboard in the back of their head. if you surf out there, make sure you have good medical insurance because accidents happen all the time…
cant’ believe the WCT is starting next month at Pipeline! it’s going to be very interesting because the coronavirus is getting worst worldwide, especially in America. and i can feel another lockdown coming. we shall see…
Seth got interviewed on TV. i wouldn’t want this kid in my heat at Pipeline…
if it’s big and wild, i’ll bet everything on Seth. can’t wait!
